1. Use frozen jugs like we did the first time around.
2. Buy a set of used stones from a curling club.
3. Make stones using concrete or perhaps dumbell weight plates.

				Click image to see large version.
Figure 1 Prototype 1	Figure 2 Prototype 2	Figure 3 Prototype 3	Figure 4 Completed Stone

1. Cut a hole in the bottom of the bowl big enough to snugly slide the 6 inch length of 1/2 pipe through - i.e. a 1/2" or 5/8" hole. Locate the hole near the edge of the flat bottom not in the center (Figure 4 or Figure 5). I scored around the end of a piece of pipe and then drilled small holes all along the circle and then connected the dots with a jigsaw. I think this is the kind of thing hole saws are for?
2. Smear loctite on the end of the 6 inch pipe that will poke "outside" the bowl.
3. Screw on the "outside" elbow that will receive the handle - i.e., the end on which you just smeared loctite.
4. Slide the 6 inch pipe through and screw the "inside" elbow on - the "inside" elbow does not require loctite and it can face any direction. The "inside" elbow should stick up higher than the rim of the bowl, this is your "rebar" for clamshelling the two bowls together with concrete (Figure 6).
5. Screw the 4 inch pipe into the other end of the "outside" elbow to form the handle - no loctite necessary, but cannot hurt.

6. 				Click image to see large version.
   Figure 5 Anti-rotate screw location	Figure 6 Ready for concrete	Figure 7 Fastening bumper (don't use this foam)	Figure 8 42 lbs!

   
   IMPORTANT prevent handle from pivoting - make sure the elbow that forms your handle is securely fastened to the vertical 6 inch pipe, otherwise your handle will pivot and misalign with use. Rather than use loctite as in step 3 above, I actually drilled a hole into the elbow through the top of the vertical 6 inch pipe and put in a screw to stop the handle from turning (Figure 5). If you use the screw method, do it as your last step.
7. Align your handle and tape the inside of the pipe to the bowl using the "handyman's secret weapon" (this also prevents leakage of concrete). You may also need some of the "handyman's secret weapon" to keep the handle vertical for the concrete pouring stage.
8. Turn mould with handle upside down on 2X6s - the outside handles will dangle below the 2X6, held in place by tape (Figure 6).
9. Pour concrete into this half (the upper half) of the stone. Use a slightly liquid mix to prevent air pockets. Fill right to the top of the rim. You should have the "inside" elbow poking through the concrete once filled to the rim.  This inside elbow is what will help cement the two halves together in the next step (think of this inside elbow as your "rebar" to concrete the halves together). Peek under the 2X6s to ensure the handles are still vertical and centered over the bowl. Let dry overnight.
10. Pour concrete into bottom half and set top half on top while bottom half concrete is wet - again a liquidy mix for the bottom half is highly recommended. Twist to ensure the "inside" elbow from your now dry top half is well buried in the now wet bottom half concrete. Let dry overnight.
11. Drill 4 holes where the seams meet (3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock), to receive the #8 bolts. Insert bolts and fasten nuts (I did not bother with washer, they didn't fit). These bolts are the failsafe to ensure the stone stays together.
12. Cut bumper (now rubber hose) to fit around the equator of the stone.  We used foam pipe insulation, which ripped, so we now have rubber hose.  Others have used rubber flooring (see viewer submissions below)!
13. Apply adhesive to foam (Figure 7) put a liberal amount of adhesive on the inside of the bumper then slip it over the seam where the bowls meet, fastening the ends together with a piece of the "handyman's secret weapon" temporarily (Figure 4 or Figure 5).
14. Wrap foam with tape (not necessary with rubber hose If you use foam, I think the handyman's secret weapon all around would help it last longer. This will detract somewhat from the look perhaps, but I failed to do this and paid the price. After 2 days of play with these stones small and large bits of foam started to come off. That is why we replaced the bumpers with the red rubber hose pictured in Figure 9b. Unfortunately we have not had good enough ice for our annual meeting for the last two years to try out the new bumpers. I know they will be more durable.
15. Prevent handle pivot - with the screw method as described above in step 6 (if you did not use loctite)(Figure 5).
16. Get outside and curl - this is all about getting outside and getting together with family/friends!

					Click image to see large version OR movie.
Figure 9a 11 completed stones old bumpers	Figure 9b 12 stones new bumpers!	Figure 10 Game on.	Movie 1 Feel the rumble.	Movie 2 Toboggan-cam shot.

Click image to see large version (MD took it to the next level)

"Hi Guys, I am a Canadian who has been living in Russia for the last 5 years. We are in a small expat community with folks from around the world. The group was bored with the long winter nites so aske me what we do to pass the time. Curling was an activity that came to mind. Like yourselves we started with the idea of plastic bottles, not great. I found your page when looking for specs on size shape and weight etc for curling stones. Making them was half the fun with 8-12 people pitching in. The only problem is lack of cold weather. Normally -20C this time of year but has been +5C in the day time. The 10 cm ice surface on our skating rink has virtually gone except the edges. Have enclosed 3 photos of the folks working and the final test. Thanks for sharing your super ideas. Th slald bowl was super. (You neded to change the specs. Each bowl is 2.5 l for a total of 5 l, this gives the right weight and diameter)"
Bob from Russia

Click image to see large version

If you have comments or suggestions: Youtube video | mindenoutersclub@gmail.com | Make Your Own Curling Stone Forum NEW

COPYRIGHT: This information belongs to the Minden Outers Club any proceeds should be directed to the MOC tontine.
*Canadian dollars